How many destinations can claim a notorious outlaw, a Native American linguistic legend, and the setting for a great American novel, all while being named after salt provisions? Sallisaw packs this rich history and rustic charm into a peaceful city that offers a potent distillation of Oklahoma’s epic past. It’s a reminder that a state otherwise known for natural wonders like state parks with mesmerizing mesas and iconic trails also offers something for bookish students of history.
The city of Sallisaw has the unique distinction of being home to one of America’s most legendary outlaws, Charles Arthur “Pretty Boy” Floyd. The gangster, “a pretty boy with apple cheeks” according to early descriptions, grew up on a farm near Sallisaw. Locals lauded the criminal, comparing him to Robin Hood, claiming he’d nix mortgage records while he robbed banks (though that may be more myth than reality). His rampant heists between Ohio and Oklahoma eventually earned him the designation of “Public Enemy No. 1,” and he was eventually gunned down in 1934. While Floyd’s gravestone is 9 miles outside of town in Akins Cemetery, slip fiends know Sallisaw for another reason.
The town’s horse racetrack, Blue Ribbon Downs, has been a proving ground for elite race horses since the 1960s, producing world champions. Today, it’s a “racino” created and owned by the Choctaw Nation, which spurred a building boom. Crowds have slowed down their appetite for betting on ponies, and the city now primarily lives off a mix of healthcare and retail. Still, its historic attractions make it an ideal stop along a bigger road trip through the Sooner State.
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Sallisaw’s charm and history, on full display
The inside of Sequoyah’s cabin in Sallisaw, Oklahoma – John Elk/Getty Images
The town’s rustic charm, still visible in the brick facades and low-slung buildings that line its streets, is a byproduct of its rough and tumble past. After initially being named for the salt found in its streams, Sallisaw’s early economic growth was fueled by cotton. By the 1930s, industry changes and the economic tumult of the Great Depression forced an economic do-over. That hardscrabble history and the town’s location along Oklahoma’s arid plains inspired John Steinbeck to use Sallisaw as the hometown of the fictional Joad family in his acclaimed masterwork “The Grapes of Wrath.” However, the author took more liberties in his novel than locals could recognize. (The drought that hit Oklahoma’s plains bypassed hilltop Sallisaw, and the characters’ laziness painted “Okies” in an unfair light.) Yet the town’s cameo in “The Grapes of Wrath” and the life of “Pretty Boy” Floyd are only a smidgen of its complex past.
That rich history is exemplified by the numerous flags that have flown over Sallisaw, falling under the rule of Spain, France, the Cherokee Nation, and the United States. That past is virtually inseparable from the numerous tribes that called the area home, and Sallisaw has several attractions dedicated to preserving this history. The 14 Flags Museum, for example, uses log cabins, artifacts, and a train depot to retell the history of the town, from its early tribes to the arrival of railroads. That Native American past also remains relatively intact at Sequoyah’s Cabin Museum. The silversmith and soldier Sequoyah is perhaps best known for helping the Cherokee tribe codify its speech into writing. (His name was later foisted upon the giant redwoods dotting the Pacific Coast.) The remnants of his cabin rest 15 minutes east of Sallisaw, well preserved and open to visitors.
The logistics of visiting Sallisaw
“Pretty Boy” Floyd’s mugshot – Bettmann/Getty Images
Travelers must dedicate a bit of time and effort to reach Sallisaw. Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport is an eye-watering 259 miles away, made worse by the airport’s knack for having the worst delays in America. Instead, try to book a flight for Fort Smith Regional Airport in Arkansas, which is about half an hour’s drive away. The airport’s eponymous town is an underrated getaway boasting a thriving arts scene worth checking out.
Those looking to stay overnight in Sallisaw have a smattering of chain hotels and locally owned inns to choose from at bargains as low as $46 per night. For more options, head up to Muskogee, an off-the-beaten-path city with historic charm with higher-quality digs. Summers can reach well into the 90s in the area, so if you can’t stand the heat, plan to visit during the shoulder season.
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